The perfect collaboration for the perfect Mag Carrier. Tactical Works and Ivory Holsters have teamed up to bring you the best hand-built custom Kydex Mag Carrier for your AICS pattern magazines, The Rifleman Mag Carrier.

When we wanted to create a mag pouch for our Long Range and PRS guys we knew exactly who to reach out to. Ivory Holsters build their products by hand and are known for their fanatical attention to detail and the new Rifleman Mag Carrier is no exception. Built around AICS pattern short action magazines using a Blade-Tech Tek-Lok belt attachment and integrating an MRD (manual retention device) for front to back tension adjustment, the results are the best custom hand-built Kydex Mag Carrier for your AICS pattern short action magazines.

Features include:

• Constructed with 0.080″ thick Kydex

• Blade Teck Tek-Lok belt attachment. Adjustable for belt width from 1.5″ to 2.25″. Double locking mechanism so no slipping or twisting.

• Mounting holes on both sides of carrier so can be used ambidextrously

• MRD (Manual Retention Device) for adjusting front to back tension to fit a variety of magazines

• Fits most short action 10 round AICS pattern magazines: Accuracy International, Accurate Mag, MDT polymer and metal, Magpul

• Weighs just under 4 ounces. Measures 4 1/4″ x 3″ x 1 1/4″

• 1/8″ Allen Key included for MRD adjustment

• Made by hand in the USA

Tikka T3 owners, if you are looking to upgrade your rifle with parts that offer a superior fit and finish, look no further. You are going to want to get your hands on a Sterk Shooting bolt handle and bolt shroud. Manufactured in Australia with painstaking care in small batches and now available at Tactical Works, Inc. Each handle and shroud are tested on 2 Tikka bolts after they are CNC’d to track tolerances and any tool wear. Each bolt handle is bent by hand and then hand polished, even if it gets Cerakoted, to remove all machine marks.

The bolt handles are available in Swept Ball, Pineapple, and Grooved style.  The shrouds are available in 2 styles: Gen1 and the new Gen2 “Wasp”.

The Swept Ball are a CNC machined Stainless shaft and Aluminum ball, cerakoted black. These weigh in at 49.2 grams compared to the factory handle at 41 grams.

The Pineapple and Grooved handles and the Bolt Shrouds are CNC machined Titanium available raw/polished or cerakoted black. The Pineapple handle weighs just 42.8 grams and the Grooved weighs 44.6 grams. The Gen1 Shroud weighs 26.43 grams and the Gen2 Shroud weighs 22 grams.

An easy, quick way to upgrade your Tikka T3 rifle with superior parts!

When mounting a $1,000+ piece of glass on my rifles, I am very hesitant when it comes to scope rings. All I’ve known were the Vortex PMR’s (Precision Matched Rings). The Vortex rings are made by Seekins Precision and branded by Vortex. I’ve always been a fan of the old saying “You get what you pay for” because it has never steered me wrong. So it all started about a month ago when I decided to purchase a new Bushnell Elite Tactical DMR2 3.5-21x50mm. This scope is a dream to look through but it has a 34mm tube. I’ve only ever owned 30mm scopes so I was set with a decision to make. I looked at the Vortex rings and during my search I noticed that XLR Precision has started making their own rings. The XLR rings are $69.99 so with that little saying I mentioned above, I thought, why are the Vortex rings $160.00 and the XLR rings $69.99? Are they worth a crap? I started really thinking about how the guys at XLR are one of the leading rifle chassis manufacturers around. Their chassis are superb in quality and workmanship. I said “screw it, what do I have to lose. It’s only $70”. I’ll admit, I was a little nervous not knowing what to expect, no reviews whatsoever online. When the package showed up on my doorstep, I couldn’t wait to open it. The rings came in a nice plastic package, along with a torx wrench for installation. I pulled the Wheeler scope mounting kit out and began to install the rings. I mounted the bottom half of the rings on the rifle and placed the mounting kit alignment rods in the rings to see how precision matched these rings really were. They were right on point and perfectly concentric! All my fears went away after seeing this. These rings are precision quality just like the “high dollar” rings. I have about 150 rounds on these rings and they are holding my scope like a champ! XLR is on to something and I’m really digging it. This company is offering a set of rings for half the price of other companies with the same superb quality. XLR’s rings are precision machined in the United State from 6061-T6 Aluminium and 4605 steel with a matte black hard anodized finish. They are designed to fit on a 1913 picatinny rail with integrated recoil lugs to ensure a snug fit so they do not slide forward and aft as well as a flush fitting steel side plate with dual spring loaded guides. They weigh between 5.1 – 5.7 ounces depending on what size you get. The recommended torque specs for the rings are 25 inch-lbs for the top screws and 45 inch-lbs for the side plate. They come in 1 inch, 30mm and 34mm variations in medium and high profiles. I didn’t hesitate to order another set for a new rifle that is on the way. These rings are the real deal, you won’t be disappointed.

See you on the range,

Preston

Ask any shooter about their sling of choice and you will quickly find that they haven’t put as much thought in a sling as they have into other shooting or gun accessories. I have been guilty of this very thing myself. Brian from Colorado Precision Rifle sent us his own personally designed sling to demo. Brian is an accomplished U.S. Army Veteran Sniper & Sniper Instructor as well as a very talented Precision Rifle Shooter so he set out to design a sling to accommodate the long range precision rifle shooter. Right out of the box, the sling allows you to choose your attachments whether it be QD sling swivels, HK Clips etc. We went with the QD swivels to attach to our MDT TAC21 Chassis. The CPRifle Sling is such a simple design and also has several different ways to incorporate it in different styles of shooting. Before this sling came along, all I ever used a sling for is to carry my rifle from stage to stage not knowing that a sling like this existed to help me through a stage sort of like my shooting bags do. With match directors incorporating more and more challenging courses of fire, competitors are looking for ways to ease the burden of a stage and this sling does exactly that. This two point sling has changed my way of thinking. Not only is the sling a weapon transport device but also a stabilization device used in positional shooting. PRS shooting has exploited the whole idea of the CPRifle Sling and could also be used in combat, as well as hunting applications.

We took the sling out to use it in a team match and the first thing I noticed was how easy the sling is to get in to. Everything on the sling slides easy and is accessible while wearing it so you shouldn’t have any issues finding anything. The best part about it is that it has an integrated arm cuff. I used the sling when shooting out of a car window to push the rifle against the door and could not believe the stability that it created. There was little to no wobble of the gun and I hit every target in that stage. What this cuff does for you is very valuable. It incorporates an arm cuff shown below in Figure 1-1 and what this does is pushes the rifle into your shoulder or depending on which way you are exerting pressure, you can push the gun forward into a barricade creating a more stable shooting position.

This can be done sitting, kneeling, or standing as we all know what NOT to expect in PRS matches. In PRS matches, most of the time, you will have a 2 minute course of fire so having a sling that is easy to work with is pertinent.

Setting up the arm cuff is very easy to do as shown in Figure 1-2 and 1-3.

For right handed shooters, simply insert your left arm into the cuff, move the cuff up to your bicep and simply grab the D-loop and cinch it down until you are stable shown in Figure 1-4.

Another feature the sling boasts is a steel cam buckle to adjust the length of the sling on the fly quickly as seen in Figure 1-5.

The cam buckle comes with 550 cord attached so all you have to do is grab and pull. The Colorado Precision Rifle Sling is a must have in your PRS or tactical tool box. It makes practical sense to use one no matter what you are shooting at. It is made out of high strength material and most importantly, made in the USA by a great company.  I plan on continuing to test it on many different applications out in the field. My advice is, you won’t be sorry your bought this sling, it is a must have accessory!!

As Always, See you at the range!!

Preston Lewis

Team Tactical Works, Inc.

**photos courtesy of Brian @ CPRifle

Warning!

Before starting work on any firearm be sure that the firearm is clear. Do not touch the trigger until the firearm has been cleared. Inspect the chamber to ensure that it is clear of ammunition and that there is no ammunition positioned to be chambered. Do not keep live ammunition near your workspace. Once you have checked the firearm, check it again!

Tactical Works, Inc. takes no responsibility for the accuracy and/or safety of this “how to”.  This post is simply for your reading enjoyment. Before shooting any firearm have it inspected by a qualified gunsmith.

In this Do-It-Yourself Tutorial, we will be installing the Savage Improved Extractor Kit.

List of tools you need to accomplish this installation successfully.

• Clean Workspace
• Tweezers
• 1/6″ punch
• Small mallet
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Compressed air or canned air
• 4″ piece of packing tape
• Gun oil
• Good set of eyes (joking but for real!)

This kit consists of a modified extractor, larger extractor detent ball, and custom ejector and ejector spring.

*Some of the installation pictures show the original kit parts. The new kit parts (pictured above) may look slightly different but the installation steps are the same.

Step 1: Remove the bolt from your rifle.

Step 2: In this step, we will be removing the OEM Extractor from the bolt head. Take your flathead screwdriver (make sure it is small enough to fit in the slot in front of the extractor) and place it flat against the extractor. With a small amount of pressure, push the extractor toward the outside of the bolt face as shown in Figure 2-1.  Make sure while you are pushing the extractor that you keep a hand over the bolt face because the detent ball underneath the extractor will shoot out if you’re not careful.  See Figure 2-2.

Step 3: Once the extractor is clear of the bolt and the detent ball is captured, use your tweezers to pull the spring out of the blind hole. See Figure 3.1. Lay the OEM extractor and detent ball on the piece of tape as shown in Figure 3.2. Lay the spring to the side as you will reuse it with the new extractor. Figure 3.3.

Step 4: Once the spring is removed from the blind hole, take your air compressor or canned air and blow the blind hole out to get any residual dirt, dust or grime out. Apply a few drops of gun oil into the hole as well as on the spring and place the spring back into the blind hole (either direction, doesn’t matter). See Figure 4.1. 

Step 5: Place the new (larger) detent ball on top of the spring. It should sit on the spring sticking out above the bolt face. See Figure 5.1. 

Step 6: In Figure 6.1, notice the new extractor plate. The detent ball indention faces the bolt and the extractor lip faces the inside of the bolt face.

Step 7: Slide the new extractor into the slots in the bolt head until it contacts the detent ball as shown in Figure 7.1. Use your small flathead screwdriver and carefully push the detent ball down below the surface of the bolt face and slide the extractor plate in over the detent ball simultaneously. You will hear it snap into place. See Figure 7.2.

Step 8: Look for the ejector pin hole on the opposite side of the bolt as the extractor. This pin only comes out one way and only goes in one way. You will see an inlet on the top of the bolt head. This is the side where you will insert your punch. See Figures 8.1 and 8.2 for pin removal direction. Use your 1/16″ punch and insert it into the hole. Lightly tap the pin out of the bolt head until the pin is clear of the bolt head. Cup your hand over the bolt face and pull the punch out in the opposite direction.

Step 9:  Again, use your air compressor or canned air to blow out the ejector rod hole making sure to get any trash or sand out. Apply a few drops of gun oil into the hole and the new ejector spring as shown in Figure 9.1.

Step 10: Install the new ejector spring onto the new ejector rod. If you look at the ejector rod (as shown in Figure 10.1) there is a slot cut out on one side of the rod. Position the “cutout” facing toward the small extractor retention pin. Once you have the cutout in the ejector positioned correctly toward the pin, insert the ejector and spring into the blind hole.

Step 11: This next step is a little tricky…. Use your thumb to depress the ejector into the hole while simultaneously pushing the pin into the retention hole. Remember that the pin can only be inserted one way. See Figure 11.1.

Step 12: Once the pin is in place, push the ejector down a few times to make sure that is functions correctly and doesn’t bind. See Figure 12.1

Step 13: Install the bolt back into the action and cycle it forward and back. Hand feed an EMPTY case into the chamber and close the bolt. Cycle the bolt. Cycle the bolt rearward and make sure that the case ejects and kicks away from the gun. If this is successful, YOU ARE FINISHED!

**Note: Sometimes with installation you will find your bolt is hard to close. With the new parts being all stainless steel they are stiffer and may need some help mating up and breaking in. If you experience this problem you will need to place an EMPTY CASE in the chamber and slam your bolt. You may have to work your bolt to loosen it and may need to cycle it as above several times (sometimes upwards of 100 times). Then you should be good to go. As always just call or email us with any questions or concerns.

The Savage Improved Extractor Kit is a great upgrade to your Savage 10/110 and Savage Axis rifle. With this kit, you won’t have to worry about hung cases or failure to extract anymore. And it will kick the cases further away from the gun. 

You’ll be glad you spent the time to install this kit. It really adds a piece of mind knowing that your rifle is going to eject without a doubt whenever, wherever.

As always,

See you on the range!!

Preston

Tactical Works, Inc. announces the addition of Hunter Shaw to Team Tactical Works.
Hunter will be joining Team Tactical Works Inc. as a sponsored shooter, product tester/reviewer and consultant. 

Colorado Springs, CO, November 30th – Hunter Shaw is an avid outdoorsman, full-time dad and a husband. He has enjoyed the outdoors and been a gun enthusiast ever since he was young.

As soon as he entered the world of long range shooting and F-Class, he was hooked. His best finishes to date are 3rd place at Core Shooting Solutions Long Range Challenge PRS club match and Gulf Country Gun and Rifle Club’s monthly F-Class match.

Hunter is a sponsored Team Tactical Works shooter as well as a product tester and “TW Think Tank” member. He and Preston Lewis shoot team matches together, get in range time and reloading time weekly, and share knowledge of guns and long range shooting.

“As a full time dad and contractor, I stay busy but still find time to practice and compete. I am looking forward to building a great relationship with Team Tactical Works.”

Tactical Works, Inc. is headquartered right outside the downtown area of beautiful Denver Colorado.

Our company mission is simple, provide our customers a simple and secure area to acquire reputable firearm accessories while providing superior customer service.

To help us with our mission our main goal is to offer quality firearm accessories from companies who stand behind their products.  

Our customers are military, law enforcement, competition and recreational shooters who need to depend and trust on their weapons platform.

If you would like more information about this topic, please call Team Tactical Works, Inc. at 970-672-0765, or email [email protected].

Free Recoil. What does that mean? Free Recoil is essentially that, allowing the rifle to recoil naturally, without any substantial resistance from the shooter.

It is a matter of hit or miss past about 300-400 yards. In the precision rifle world or shooting off of barricades for that matter, free recoil is a must. Long range shooting requires constant consistency. It doesn’t matter what gun, what bullet or what gear you use, find what works for you and stick to it. The same goes for free recoil. It doesn’t matter which side of the platform you shoot from, find a way to do it and practice it over and over again. It may not feel comfortable (at first) to the traditional shooter trying to get into precision rifle shooting but muscle memory will come easily with practice. I can’t express this enough; practice practice practice. Experiment at home before you go to the range.

Start by MAKING SURE YOUR GUN IS CLEAR AND UNLOADED BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

Grab your favorite barricade bag (like the CrossTac Saddlebag pictured above which is what I use). Find or build a barricade in your backyard that you can lay your bag on. Staple a paper target to your fence as far away as you can. Lay your gun on the bag to where it will balance itself without touching it. For right handed shooters, place your left hand over the scope in front of your windage turret (vise versa for lefties). Get behind the gun, look through the glass, DO NOT SHOULDER THE STOCK. This step is the most important. If you shoulder the stock, your reticle will move all around the target and you may impact 1 out 10 if you’re lucky. The only 2 points of contact on the gun shall be your left hand over the scope and your right trigger finger. The stock should be floating with your left hand controlling the muzzle. Put your cross hairs on target and slowly pull the trigger rearward and let it surprise you. As mentioned above, practice makes perfect. Dry firing your gun in these positions is the most effective practice you could ever do. It teaches you how to pull your trigger without jerking it, and how to hold your rifle steady on target with the least amount of contact possible. Once you think you have it, take your new skill to the range and see how you do. The first time will more than likely not be perfect but don’t give up. Watch how you are shooting and correct yourself. We are all creatures of habit and I promise you that your natural reaction will be to shoulder the rifle (AGAIN DON’T DO THIS). Correct yourself on the fly. Once you’ve mastered free recoil, you will be surprised how accurate of a shooter you are at distances out to 1,100 yards and beyond. Hope you guys take this advice and stick to it; I did and it made a HUGE difference in my accuracy when it counts the most!

As always, see you at the range.

Warning!

Before starting work on any firearm be sure that the firearm is clear. Do not touch the trigger until the firearm has been cleared. Inspect the chamber to ensure that it is clear of ammunition and that there is no ammunition positioned to be chambered. Do not keep live ammunition near your workspace. Once you have checked the firearm, check it again!

Tactical Works, Inc. takes no responsibility for the accuracy and/or safety of this “how to”.  This post is simply for your reading enjoyment. Before shooting any firearm have it inspected by a qualified gun smith.

Installing the SSS Savage Competition Trigger

SSS Savage Competition Trigger

In this DIY tutorial, we will be installing a Sharp Shooter Supply Competition trigger in a Savage Model 10 FCP-SR. This trigger is a great value and will take your rifle and accuracy to the next level. The SSS Competition Trigger has an adjustable pull range from 2 pounds to 12 ounces. It also comes with installation instructions as well as allen key wrenches. In order to have a successful trigger install, below are a list of tools needed.

• Dremel Tool with a diamond dremel bit
• Vise
• Set of Allen Wrenches for stock or chassis removal
• 1/8” drift punch to remove the main trigger frame pin
• Small pair of Needle Nose Pliers to re-install the bolt release spring
• Blue Loctite
• Torque Wrench to reinstall the stock or chassis

Before you start, MAKE SURE YOUR GUN IS CLEAR AND UNLOADED. I cannot stress this enough. Safety First!!!

Step 1- Remove the bolt from the action

Step 2- Remove the front and rear action screws. (On a stock, you will remove the forward screw and the screw in front of the trigger guard. On a chassis such as a Stealth/MDT LSS chassis, you will only have 2 screws, remove both of them.

Step 3- Place your barreled action on a flat surface with the trigger facing up.

Step 4- Take your 1/8” drift punch and remove the Main Trigger Frame Pin shown in Figure 4-1.

Figure 4-1

Once this pin is removed, slide the whole assembly forward towards the muzzle and pull up. It will come right out. Remove the bolt release lever and spring shown in Figures 4-2 and 4-3 below.

Figure 4-2

Figure 4-3

Step 5- Carefully remove the “C” Clip on the side of the Accutrigger and pull the trigger pin out. Pull the entire trigger free of the frame and lay it to the side.

Step 6- Take the main trigger frame and put it in your vise so you will have a steady working surface as shown in Figure 6-1. (Only for Accutrigger Models will you have to modify the main trigger frame. Pre-2004 Savages have a different trigger frame that does not need to be modified.)

Figure 6-1

Step 7- With the diamond bit in your dremel tool, carefully grind a slot into main trigger frame to allow clearance for the stud on the SSS trigger. (Looking at the frame from the front with the holes facing up you will be grinding the left side) As shown in Figures 7-1 and 7-2

Figure 7-1

Figure 7-2

Step 8- Grind a little at a time and slide the SSS Competition trigger into the frame until the frame sits right against the new trigger housing as shown in Figure 8-1. (You don’t want anything binding as your trigger will not function properly if anything is smashed.)

Figure 8-1

Step 9- Once your new SSS trigger will sit perfect in your trigger frame with the two back feet shown in Figures 9-1 and 9-2 sitting on top of the trigger frame and the screw holes (frame and trigger holes) lined up perfectly, insert the provided machine screw through the hole (doesn’t matter through which side) and thread the provided nut onto the screw on the opposite side. Tighten the screw with the provided allen key until it is snug. DO NOT TORQUE THE NUT DOWN!! Apply a small amount of blue LOCTITE in the middle of the nut being careful not to get any into the trigger.Wipe off excess if needed.

Figure 9-1

Figure 9-2

Step 10- Once the SSS Trigger is installed in the main trigger frame, place the lip on the back of the frame into the slot in the rear of the action.

Step 11- Re-install the bolt release lever the way you took it off as shown in Figure 11-1 below.

Figure 11-1

Step 12- Slide a small allen wrench through the holes of the bolt stop lever, main trigger frame and action as shown in Figure 12-1 allowing all of the components to line up correctly.

Figure 12-1

Step 13- Install the bolt release lever spring with the small pair of needle nose pliers and push your allen wrench through the spring and all the way through the bolt release.

Step 14- Take your main trigger frame pin and slowly push it through the hole on the spring side pushing the allen key out. (Exactly the opposite way you inserted the allen key.) This step may take some fooling with but take your time and you will get it. See Figure 14-1. (Main trigger frame pin re-installed)

Figure 14-1

Step- 15- Slide your safety tab to the rear  in the “Safe Position”. Use the smallest provided allen key to adjust “Screw D” clockwise until it touches the safety bar. (You can see it under the trigger housing). Once it is touching the safety bar, back it off 1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise. Install your bolt and “cock the gun” and pull the trigger and make sure IT WILL NOT FIRE WITH THE SAFETY ON!! If it does fire with the safety on, turn the screw clockwise until it won’t, making sure that your safety tab slides back and forth freely without binding.

Figure 15-1

Step 16- “Screw C” is your Overtravel Screw. This screw will set your desired over travel. Turning the screw clockwise reduces the overtravel and counter-clockwise increases over travel. (If this screw is adjusted in all the way clockwise, it will not allow the trigger sear to engage.If this happens, turn the screw counter-clockwise until the sear will engage the trigger.)

Step 17- “Screw A” is the Sear engagement adjustment screw. A majority of your pull weight will be associated with this screw. This screw comes set from the factory for minimum sear engagement. It is advised to adjust this screw no more than one turn clockwise to reduce sear engagement, if you adjust this screw counter-clockwise, it will increase your trigger pull weight. Reducing the sear engagement introduces the risk of a slam fire or accidental sear disengagement.

Step 18- “Screw B” is your Trigger Pull Weight adjustment. You can set this screw where you so desire. Turning the screw clockwise increases your pull weight and turning it counter-clockwise reduces the pull weight.

Step 19- Once your trigger is adjusted to your preference, cycle the bolt no less than 100 times making sure you have no slam fires or unintentional sear disengagements. Also make sure your safety engages as well. SAFETY FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!

Step 20- Once you’ve deemed your rifle “SAFE”, carefully lay the barreled action back into the stock or chassis. If you have a Savage Accustock, you will not have to modify the trigger guard or stock when reinstalling. If you have a Savage Stealth or MDT LSS chassis, you will have to open up the trigger hole about a ¼” forward to clear the new trigger housing. Your dremel with the same bit will do this easily.

Step 21- Once your action is sitting in your stock or chassis with no interference, apply a liberal amount of blue Loctite to the ends of the action screws. Thread the action screws into the actions and hand tighten them. With your torque wrench, tighten the rear action screw to 60 inch pounds and same for the front action screw. Once both screws are tightened to 60 inch pounds, tighten the rear action screw to 65 inch pounds.

You can, at any time, reinstall the Savage accutrigger. This modification isn’t permanent.

YOU’RE DONE!!!

Trigger Install Complete

Trigger Install Complete

This install is well worth the finished product, I promise you!!!

As always, see you at the range.

When I received the Original gen1 Crosstac Saddle Bag, I was very impressed with the quality and workmanship in this shooting bag. I was looking for a bag that can be used on pretty much any barricade that PRS match directors can throw at you. I have always been a comfortable shooter that carried different bags around with me in a match to suit different barricades (rear bag, strap on bag etc.) until the Crosstac saddle bag showed up on my doorstep. The first thing I did with this bag was set it on a railing to see how it would support my gun by itself. To give you an idea, I shoot a 6.5 Creedmoor on an MDT TAC21 chassis with a 24 in barrel (12.4 lbs) and I can lay this weapon system on the bag and simply let go of it. With that being said, long range precision shooters dream about having a bag that will steady a gun like this. The first time I used it, I shot out to 1020 yards 5x with no misses.

Lisa called me and asked if I would try out the new Crosstac Gen2 Ultralight Saddle Bag. The item showed up and I could not believe how lightweight this thing was. The bag itself is the exact same as the gen1 saddle bag except for the fill. The gen1 uses a coarse ground walnut fill weighing in at about 7lbs versus the gen2 bag being filled with a ball bearing size Styrofoam weighing in at a little under a pound. Back to the range with the gen2 bag and my fears were confirmed. With rifle stability being one of the main components of long range shooting, the gen2 bag did not hold the gun near as well because the Styrofoam does not mold in place like the crushed walnut media of the gen1.

I had a few of my PRS team buddies up to see what they thought about it.

Will, “It would be nice to run around with a lightweight bag but I definitely like the way the gen1 bag cradles my gun.”

Dennis, “For an older shooter, I like the gen2 saddle bag because of the weight. I would not sacrifice weight for accuracy in a match though.”

Hunter, “For the saddle bag concept as a whole, you can do a lot of different things with it. It’s nice to have lightweight gear for matches or for hunting but in a match where points are on the line, I want something that is going to be very stable. The gen1 bag is definitely the one for me.”

With that being said, everyone has their own opinions. I do like that Crosstac gives you the option to unzip the bag and put whatever fill you would like in there (including my son who likes to hide his little army men in mine). Maybe they could give you the option to order both types of fill so you could switch them out for different applications or even mix them for a happy medium of lightweight bag and great weapon stability. For me, I’m going with the gen1 Crosstac Saddle Bag. Until next time!

Tactical Works, Inc. announces the addition of Preston Lewis to Team Tactical Works.
Preston will be joining Team Tactical Works Inc. as a sponsored shooter, product tester/reviewer, author, contributor, and consultant. 

Colorado Springs, CO, September 27 – Preston Lewis was born and raised in Panama City, FL. He is an avid hunter, fisherman, full-time dad and a husband. He enjoys the thrill of long-range shooting or anything to do with firearms for that matter.

Preston has been around guns his entire life however over the last 8 years, when he is not spending time with his family he devotes most of his free time to the science of long-range shooting sports. Preston shoots matches as a member in the Precision Rifle Series as well as F-Class.

When Preston isn’t shooting he spends his free time reloading for practice and matches and tuning rifles for himself and others.

Preston is a sponsored Team Tactical Works shooter as well as an author, product tester, “TW Think Tank” member and contributor.

“I am honored to be a part of Team Tactical Works. The folks at Tactical Works, Inc. are wonderful people to work with. If you need anything for long range shooting, you’ve come to the right place! See you at the range.”

Tactical Works, Inc. is headquartered right outside the downtown area of beautiful Denver Colorado.

Our company mission is simple, provide our customers a simple and secure area to acquire reputable firearm accessories while providing superior customer service.

To help us with our mission our main goal is to offer quality firearm accessories from companies who stand behind their products.  

Our customers are military, law enforcement, competition and recreational shooters who need to depend and trust on their weapons platform.

If you would like more information about this topic, please call Team Tactical Works, Inc. at 970-672-0765, or email [email protected].